Saturday, November 5, 2016

Stimulating Sikkim 2

Razen Manandhar 2


My old love is attached with Sikkim. I fell in love with Sikkim long before I knew how to distinguish between love and hate, some 18 years ago. Even fancy of touching the pleasant earth of Sikkim once again gave me tickling pleasure. An excursion to Sikkim with some Esperantists (speakers of Esperanto) from different countries, mainly from France, was organized. Series of procrastinations took us to the date of historic election of Constituent Assembly. What to choose? Either utilizing right to vote and participating in this important event or roaming around refreshing Sikkim, talking with international friends in Esperanto. Choosing one is not easy thing.

Everyday I read the newspapers, listen to the radio or watch the TV. I find the same - same parties, same manifestos and old dry speeches. They are not giving what the people seek, and the people are not ready to receive what they have in their hands. Those who should come up and should brought what the people need failed to make a height. After all, only the thing will take place what the foreign forces want. Out duty is only to flatter an old pair of sun and moon in the air. I made my determination -- that would not cast my vote this time also. At the time of previous election, I was assigned to report from Koplng, the village of Dr. Baburam Bhattarai. Now, I'm free to boycott. Either somebody is coming or not, I decided to go to Sikkim, so that I would escape possibility of smearing my own face with insult. I'm going to my Sikkim.

We had nine guests, from France and Germany, all speakers of Esperanto, the international language. As per our notificaitons, all guests arrived on November 13th. Amid protests, srikes and bomb blasts, they went to Baudhha, Taudaha and Chobhar, enjoyed the traditional dance of Katti Pyakhan and on the second they, they went to Hanumandhoka palace, Changunarayan temple and Bhaktapur. Being with them, talking with them, and telling them about history and culture of Kathmandu - this is Esperanto.

Telling that I was going to Sikkim in Facebook brought to me some pretty jobs - I was supposed to take some gifts to friends in Sikkim. Mostly books, from Shakya Suren, Raja Shakya, Shashikala Manandhar and Bhishma Upreti were to be taken there. I will be carrying a bunch of love for Newars of Sikkim. Short conversation with Surendra Pradhan, Meena Pradhan and Rajiv Shankar was goiong on, thanks to Facebook.

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I was standing in the domestic lounge of Tribhuwan Airport on November 16th. It was a cool morning. Time has changed but it was an unchanged heritage of Nepal. I guess Nepal government should draw fee from tourists even for observing this dilapidated lounge. I saw more things for cargo than passengers. As there was no herald of development and people have developed a habit of depending on foreign goods, the pleple who carry Nepali citizenship have no other option that waiting for airplanes even for their daily needed good. From noodles to beer, onion and toilet paper -- all have to fly in Nepal. And we now and again seen the same old song that there will be development in all corners, from Mechi to Mahakali.


Forty-five minutes of flight took us to Bhadrapur. It was as hot as fire is flowing in the wind. The vehicle we have ordered took us to Kakarbhtta border. Nepali border was ok. It took around two hours to give arrival stamp on nine tourists who have already obtained visa in their respective countires. That was the reason we asked repteatedly all guests to obtain Indian visa before they leave their country. Rule is rule.


We had a late lunch at a beautiful motel in Silguri and our Toyota 4hd vehicles were playing along the Tista river. Tista was flowing outsidea and Bagmati was flowing inside. How can I just forget my beautiful city? The road along the hill was being widented. Never-ending pairs of hairpin bends - there was roaring river down and look up, you see cliff rising to the height of the sky. Mind was excited to see Sikkim, but tour vehicles were heading in a tortoise's speed. At least I thought like that. It was just Angulimal was running after the Buddha.


What is this Sikkim? Guru Padma Sambhava had said all about it. The royal dynasty of Chogyals, established in 1642. At times, it was garget of Nepal and at times became the bull's eye of the British empire. They say that the country was not developed as long as it was ruled by the Chogyals. And the Brithsh government took charge of protecting it. But it was developed only after it turned into a state of India in 1975, people of Sikkim often tell us this perspective of history. Yes, after that, it witnessed a rapid development. It requires people's will, commitment of the leaders and location strategic  importance for development of a state.

It as almost dark when we reached Rangpo Checking Point. Even though Sikkim is India, all foreign visitors need "innerline permit" to enter Sikkim. Nepali citizens also need. I've been here two times but I never sought, neither they checked me up. I was in local buses and nobody cared if I was a Sikkimese or not. But now, it is not possible, I was in an "imported" vehicle with foreigners. The officers in the 
pont made permission for me too. It took more than one hour there. 

I friend of my was supposed to wait for me at bus park. That was not possible to see him now. So, took cellphone of the driver to tell him that we would be quite late so I told him that I would come and see him next morning. I wanted so much to see him, but time has limits. I said I would come to Gandhiji's statue at 6.00 am.


It was 8.30 at night when the vehicle stopped in front of the hotel. The alley was quiet, dark and also cold. Fatigue, sleepiness and darkness killed my curiosity to say hi to Gangtok. I dragged my baggage and myself to the room. I didn't even look how it looked. I could not see the building and don't even know the name. Yes, I saw name - Hotel De La Mare - the in the kitchen.


The room was gloomy. We three Nepalis accommodated ourselves in one room. I first had cold shower and made me fresh.


We distributed caps to all foreign guests. It was quite comfortable to fight breeze.We had to wait for the dinner. It was delicious enough to kill my hunger.


We had jolly dinner in a long dining table downstairs. I had no idea of the engineering of the house. Houses in hillside always have complicated structures. Just like my mind at that time, quite complicated.


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Morning of 17th had to wake me up. I was waiting for the morning to come. Got off the bed quite early and got ready and went alone out for freshening walk. I had no idea in which part of Gangtok I was standing. I know I have a very poor sense of direction. I had to get to MG Marg, the famous one.

The morning was fresh. It was not as cold as Kathmandu, to my surprise. Short and sweet meeting with my friend, and that breakfast with chapati was just unforgettable. A SIM card of local cell phone was a quite good help for me. These days, public telephone booths are not functional as in the past. And buying a SIM card is terrible. On the top of it, one has to wait for one week to get it activated.


Having glimpse of freshening Gangtok in cool morning when soft red rays of November Sun naturally made me nostalgic. People moving around, sitting idly on foothpath brought some of blurred images of my last time visit to this small city with cosy "Nepali" people. My mind compared those old images with the new images that my eyes took just now. Nothing is similar. The roads are not that clean, crowd of people and more vehicles than pedestrians. People walk pushing one another right from the morning. Houses have been much taller. Lots of things have changed in Gangtok - I am not sure whether Gangtok is changed or me. All I realized was that it was not my kind of Gangtok. I was looking for my Gangtok in the crowd.

After the lengthy breakfast, we set ourselves in the vehicles, which took us to the famous Rumtek Monastery. As we departed form Gangtok, the town turned into a doll's dress, the dress with lots of colourul patterns. It was 11.30 when we got off. The security check was quite tought, as if we were participating in a programme of a head of the state. The guard counted our heads four times, we had know idea why. Security was equally tight inside as well. A small Swiff knife came out of my pocked and I handed over it to the security. I have visited many monasteries in Nepal but I never had chance to come across this kind of security change. There is no checking even in the stately Pashupatinath temple. May be, because we trust upon Sri Pashupatinath.

On one side a hill full of pine trees were dancing along the hilly wind, on the other Kanchenjunga was smiling with show white cap on. Peaceful and clear environment, warm sun and young monks moving to and fro, with coving themselves with smoothening crimson robes. It was so calm, I was afraid even my movement or even respiration might disturb some meditating monk nearby. I was careful, not to make any noise with my shoes on stone-paved courtyard. Still, my mind was asking me again and again - are you sure it is Rumtek, the very Rumtek I wanted to visit 18 years ago?


One of the biggest monastery of Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Some say it is the biggest monastery in Sikkim. I recalled story of Karmapa - a story of religious journey and struggle. It said that this monastery was constructed at first by 9th Kamapa Wangchuk Dorje in 16th century. But when the 16th Karmapa escaped Tibet and took refuge here in 1959, this was in a sorry state. Other monks invited him to stay in better monasteries. But her ferred to stay here, saying that this is "pure" place to reside in. After that the royal family of Sikkim as well as the Indian government supported its restoration. Now one can see a separate building with golden chhorten with the relics of the 16th Karmapa and Nalanda Buddha Collage. Some novice monks were playing football in lawn behind the main monastery. 

This pure and sacred place has fallen in series of controversies. Even crimson robbed monks were said to be involved in stone-pelting game. What made them fall to that level, if it was not politics? Two cmpetitating organizations claimed for the monastery's ownership and they eventually had to go to the court. Now both of the organizations are not allowed inside this monastery. Two Buddhist organizations have two separate Karmapas -- Churfu Labrang said that Ugyen Trinley Dorje is the Karmapa and on the other hand, Karmapa Chatirable Trust projected Trinley Thaye Dorje as the Karmapa. How disappointing that ten years have passed but the controversy has not taken an end. Isn't it strange that those who teach others to abandon this world eventually proved to have been failed to quiet one simple monastery?

The most striking part of this monastery for me was that pilgrims do not worhip any God or gods here, rather, they worship a person. An large size idol of Sakyamuni Buddha is placed in its proper place, but there is wall in front and a very big picture of Karmapa is placed there, so that people may worship him instead. I also noted that there were only a fe pictures or images of gods of Tibetan Buddism there. They prefered to worhips their Lama gurujis instead. Actually, I came from a country where a Living Goddess (Kumari) receives homage from the president on special occassions. Still, I could hot heartily accept that they are worshiping a man's photograph, instread of those of gods and goddesses. May be, I also feel comfortable from inside to worshisp stone, in stead of a person. Actually I came from  a country where a girl is worshipped as a Linving Goddess, but I don't feel comfortable to see people worshipping a photograph. May by I still belong to stone-worshippers from inside.

It was really irritating to listen to the so called guide Sanjeev. He was telling all the nonsence, and I was supposed to literally translate it into Esperanto for our friends. I also know that one should not go for religious books to explain basic religious symbols but there should be some limits to cheat foreigners. He showed picture of one of the Chatumaharajas and said one was Guru Rimpochhe and other was Bajrayana. What else? We used to joke, that one tourist guide took a foreigner to Tundikhel and posted a pointain and said that it was Mount Everest. Oh god !.


Strange, the guide did not take us anywhere after the luch. We stayed idle in the MG Marg, that famous landmark street of Gangtok. All are roaming freely. The normal activities of pedestrians were attractive to me. I was looking at them, trying to learn things. Young men and women were sitting on benches and chatting, children were playing along the road, old men and women were enjoying all this with hopeful eyes. Red setting sun was smiling from far behind.


That stone-paved and clean road, where one cannot drive could not attract me. My eyes looked for some old scenes, which I left at my first visit here. I became restless. I looked around but could not see anything that would match my dream. I thought I should to to Development Are above. But I stopped myself again. It is good to prevent your mind from jumping into the field where that should be.

At last the agent proposed us that ew would go to Fodong Monastery in stwd of Chhagu lake. It was too long way and the road was also damaged. I thought it was not a bad idea but some of our foreign friend just because they werenot informed about it.they were not ready to accept unexpectrd vhanges. How can we become so systematic/mechanical while trvelling? Some time we have to follow Nepali style too . 

It was getting dark and cool too. We entered Bakers Cafe nearby and started drinking. It was a different atmosphere there. Young couples were freely laughing, enjoying aroma of coffee. Nice lighting was arranged to showcase a lovely collection of coffee utensils. And some pretty dolls too. It was crowded and noisy but young hearts could talk they don't need words, not even language, their eyes do this for them. It is always nice to see young couples enjoying, you can't stop being nostalgic.


The agent had a quine nice an experience there, working in Sikkim with travel agents. We also shared our experience from our sides. The foreign friends explained how difficult it was at the immigration office. 


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नभेम्बर १८ सोमबार । सिक्किमय् च्वंपिं मनूत खन कि थः नं नेपाःनेपाः जुयावइ । जि नेपालय् दुथें, जिकय् नेपाः दुथें । उकिं हे जिं आल्पसें ढाका तपुलि ज्वनावयागु । छेँय् सगं बिइबलय् तपुलि पु धालकि घेँघेँ धाइम्ह जि मसः मसः तपुलि पुनाः पिहाँ वना, लः न्यायेगु त्वह चिनाः । पोषराज व हरि ला न्ह्याबलें पुइपिं, उमित छुं मपाः, जितः जकं पात का । दक्वस्यां भ्वाँय् भ्वाँय् स्वयाच्वंगुथें । लँय् वःपिं मिस्तय्सं गिजे जकं याइला धकाः ग्यासे वः ।



थ्व तपुलि पुनाः जिं छु क्यनाच्वना जिं हे मसिउ । जिगु राष्ट्रियता थ्व तपुलि ला? सुयात क्यनेगु जिं थ्व राष्ट्रियता ? जिगु राष्ट्रियता थ्व तपुलिइ खःसा घाय्घाय् बाज्याया पालंनिसें तपुलि मपुइपिं नेपालीत नेपाली मखुला ? अले उमिगु राष्ट्रनिर्माणया लागि हाःगु हिचःतिया परिभाषा राष्ट्रियता दुने मलाः ला ? अले जिं छाय् थ्व तपुलिइ भुनातयागु राष्ट्रियता थन सिक्किमय् क्यंवयाच्वना ? जिगु तपुलिं जितः हे पुत, त्वःतातीताः म्हिचाय् स्वथना जिगु ब्वसा राष्ट्रियतायात । आकास छगुलिं जिगु तपुलि, जिगु राष्ट्रियता ।



सुथय् हे फोदोङ वनेधकाः पिहाँ वयापिं लँय् सं च्वंगु ताशि भ्यूप्वाइन्टय् च्वनाः हिमालया दृष्यावलोकन याये खनेवं गनं वनेम्वाःपिं थें थानाच्वन । उकिसं अन बालं कयाः शेर्पा वसतं फिनाः फोटो कायेके खंबलय् ला उमि गनं वने तकं म्वाः ।



काबि लाङचोकया जंगलय् थ्यंबलय् ११ बजे जुइन । १३औं शताब्दीइ अनया आदिबासीत भुटियात व लेप्चातय्सं थन वयाः दाजुकिजा जूगु हँ । उमिसं थन अनया रंगित खुसि न्ह्यानाच्वँतले व कंचनजंघा धस्वानाच्वँतले हिया दाजुकिजा जुयाः नापं म्वाये धकाः हिथलय् तुतिथुनाः पाःफयेकूगु धाइ । थ्व थाय्यात सिक्किम सरकारं प्रार्थनास्थल धकाः कयातःगु दु ।

भाषाया समस्यां थौं तःधंगु रुप काल । म्वाः म्वाः धायेक गाइड संजीवं अंग्रेजी भासं कनाच्वन । अले अंग्रेजी थूम्ह पास्कालं तप्यंक फ्रेन्च भासं उमि पुचःयात कनावबिउबलय् जर्मन उर्सुलायात मछिनीगु स्वभाविक जुल । म्हिगः थ्व हे खँय् उमि तम्वयाच्वंगुलिं जिं थौं हस्तक्षेप याना — आवंलि गाइडं अंग्रेजी नवाइमखु, जिं दक्वसित एस्पेरान्तो भासं कनाबिइ । भाय् धइगु थथे संवेदनशिल जुइ इमि । सुनां नं सहयाइमखु करकिया भासं दमन याःगु ।

बाघौति वंकाः लँकथं लाःगु सात कन्या झरनाय् सिथय् पलख न्ह्यइपुकाः जिपिं लाब्राङया पुलांगु गुम्बाय् वना । गुम्बा स्वयाः थ्व बिस्कं । नाकं तखा मजू, ल्वहँतं दयेकातःगु अले च्वय् प्यखेरं बरन्दा नं पिकयातःगु । तर निदँ न्ह्यः ब्वःगु भुखाचं स्यंकूगुलिं आः जिर्णोद्धार जुयाच्वंगु दु, सिँयागु कलात्मक वरन्डाय् रंग तयेगु ज्या नं अनया लामातय्सं हे यानाच्वन ।

अज्याःगु न्यासिजक वयेमाःसा न्हिछि लाकां ज्ययेके मालीगु, पब्लिक यायायातया व्यवस्था मदुगु थ्व दुर्गम थासय् नं मनूत धर्मया निंतिं जक थःगु जीवन फ्यानाः च्वनाच्वन । नयेगु त्वनेगुया तकं थेकान मदु । अले आः ला निभाः त्वः का, चिकुलां ला प्व हे गाइगु जुइ । उकिसं नच्चा नच्चापिं लामात, सयेकः वयाच्वंपिं । जिगु मिखाय् झीगु विलासिताय् दुनाच्वंगु शहरी बुद्धधर्म दं वल । गबलय् सयेकेगु जुइ झीसं दुर्गम गामय् च्वंवनेगु, अले अन च्वंपिन्त बुद्ध शिक्षाया मत क्यनेगु ?

अन च्वंपिं मचामचापिं लामात खनाः पास्कालयात मछिन । न्यन, उमि छु नइ ? सुनां इमित बिचाःयाइ ? गुलि ब्वनेमाः ? अले मां अबुपिन्सं नापलाये दइलाकि दइमखु ? जिं सिउगु कनाबिया । थथे मस्तय्त लामा ब्वंकेछ्वयेगु पक्का नं थाकुगु ज्या खः, तर थ्व हे योगदानया फल, थौं बुद्धधर्म थथे विश्वन्यंक चकनाच्वंगु दु । छम्हनिम्हसिगु जक कुतलं थ्व सम्भव मदु ।

वयां लिपा जिपिं वना अनया उत्तर सिक्किमय् लाःगु गान्तोक स्वयाः ३८ किलोमिटर तापाःगु फोदोङ गुम्बाय् । थनया थ्व गुम्बा सिक्किमया हे छगू नां काये बहगु गुम्बा खनी । १८औं शताब्दीइ चोग्याल ग्युर्मेद नामग्यालं दयेकूगु थ्व गुम्बा काग्युपा सम्प्रदायलिसे स्वाः ।

लिक्कसं च्वंगु उमिगु ब्वनेकुथिइ ल्याय्म्ह ल्याय्म्हपिं लामात तिब्बती आखःदूगु धार्मिक सपूmत ब्वनाच्वन । उमिसं थुकिइ हे थःगु जीवन खंकाच्वन, खनं छगू जन्म जक ब्वनां मगाःगु धर्म, अथे जुयाः ला हानं हानं जन्म काःवयेमाःगु हँ उमि, अवतारी जुयाः । धर्मया अध्ययन गुबलें सिधइगु जूसा, धर्म हे नं सिधया वन जुइ ।

त्यानुक्क लिहाँ वयाः ज्यःनां सिधयेकाबलय् ४.३० हे जुइन । अथेसां धकाः तिब्बती संग्रहालय स्वयेत वना । तिनातयेधुंकल खनी । अले लिक्कसं च्वंगु छोर्तेन गुम्बा चाःहिला । सलंसः लामात पाठ यानाच्वन । छगू हे सलं, छगू हे मतापं । भाय् मथूसां उमिगु शब्दं वातारवरणय् छगू सम्मोहन हयाबिउगु दु, थ्व शान्तिया सन्देश बाहेक मेगु छु जुइ ?

याकनं चाःहिले सिधःगु बांहेलात । थौं जिगु विशेष ज्या दु — थनया स्थानीय नेवाः संस्थाया प्रतिनिधित नापलायेगु । सुथय् हे भाजु सुरेन्द्र प्रधान झाःगु जिगु होटलय् । पलख थनया व नेपाःया राजनीतिया बारे ल्हानाः थौं बहनी मुँज्या यायेगु खँ क्वःछिनागु ।

५.३० बजे मीना प्रधान ला होटलय् थ्यंकःवल, जिगु लागि कोसेली न्हापं ज्वनाः । जितः उमिसं क्वःछिनातःगु मिन्ट ट्री माउन्टेन रेष्टुरान्टय् यंकल । छम्हनिम्ह यायां च्याम्हति हे भाजुमय्जुपिं खात । साःसाःगु नयेगु लिसें उमि थःथःगु खँ जुयाच्वन । येँय् वयाः नेपालभाषाय् स्नातकोत्तर यानावंम्ह मीना बाहेक मेपिन्सं नेवाः भाय् मल्हाः । अनया नेवाःतय्गु बारे छुं भति न्यना । लिसः वल । जिं स्वनिगलं हयागु सपूmया पँ सुरेन्द्रजुयात लःल्हानाबिया । पलख लिपा अनया सिक्किम नेवाः गुथिया स्मारिकाया छुं प्रति जितः वल, जितः बियादिल येँय् थ्यंकेत । सिक्किमया नेवाः समाजयात पुलुक्क छकः स्वयेगु कुतः जिगु । येँ स्वयाः थुलि तापाक्क वयाः नं अनया नेवाःतय्के नेवाः जुयागु भावना दु , संगठित दु, थःगु संस्कृति प्रति मतिनादु, आः थःगु भाय् नं बुलुहँ ल्हायेगु सयेकी धइगु विश्वास बियाच्वंगु दु ।

खँ ल्हानाच्वँच्वं भाजु राजेन्द्र भण्डारीयात भीष्म दाइनं बियाहःगु सपूm बिइ हे मलात । मीनायात थ्व सपूm थ्यंका बिउ धकाः इनाप यानावया ।

०००

नभेम्बर १९, मंगलबार । सिक्किम थ्यँहे मथ्यंनि, वनेत्ययेधुंकल । च्वना धायेला मच्वना धायेला । बांलाक तय्जु हे मजूनि । हानं गबलय् वयेगु जुइ । छक्क कस्सिक घयेपुइ हे मखं । थनया नेवाः समाजलिसे सतिक्क च्वना छगू अज्याःगु छुं सिर्जना च्वयेगु म्हगस , गबलय् पूवनी मसिउ । वने न्है ? धकाः नं न्यने ला मन्यने ला । लाःसा वने मतेनि, निन्हुस्वन्हु च्वँ धाइगु जुइ । हानं मतिनाया सिखतं जकं चिनातइगु खःला?

सुथ न्हापां सुमनयात वयागु सीमकार्ड लित बियावया । यःसां मयाःसां थौं होटल डेलामेरलिसे बायेगु निश्चित जुल । होटल जक छु सिक्किमयात हे त्वतावने त्यल । थनया यचुपिचु, व्यवस्था व शान्ति छम्हू जक नेपालय् पुसा ह्वलेथें ह्वलेदुसा झीगु नेपाल नं थ्व थें जुयावइगु जुइ नि । काचाक्क गान्तोकया छम्हू फय् ज्वनाः म्हिचाय् तया । थ्व फय् स्वनिगलय् ह्वलेमानि ।

लिहाँ ववं बिचाः याना वयाच्वना । नेपालय् जातीय राज्य वइ धकाः मनूतय्त ख्यानाच्वन । थ्व छु राज्य ले ? थ्व भारतया छगू अज्यागु राज्य खः गन भारतया हे मेमेगु राज्ययापिं भारतीयतय्त तकं अःपुक दुकाइमखु । थन मेमेगु राज्यया मनूत दुहाँ वयाः बसोबास यायेगु, लजगाः यायेगु ला तापाःगु खँ । उकिं थन लँय् फोहर याइपिं मदु, बँपसः तइपिं मदु, खण्ड व अखण्डया राजनीति नं मदु । जनसंख्या हे ६लाख १० हजार ति, येँया छगू निर्वाचन क्षेत्र ति जक । दुसां थःत मदुसां थःत, अले मजुइ ला शान्ति, सुशासन अले विकास ?

झी नेतात इलय्ब्यलय् सिक्किमीकरण धकाः धिमय् थानाजुइ । तर थन च्वंपिन्सं सिक्किमीकरण धइगु छु धइगु मसिउ, उमिसं सिउसा अथे धइगु विकास खः, रोजगारी ख, स्थायीत्व खः, शान्ति खः । मसिउ जिं थ्व मार्को पालिसं खंगु सिक्किम लाकि बिएस दासं खंगु सिक्किम लाकि जिं खनागु सिक्किम । ग्व । मनू जुइत छु माः ? अथे ला आः अन थःगु राज्य धकाः धाइपिं हे गुलि दनि जुइ । उकिसं ८० प्रतिशत ला नेपालं वयाः च्वंवःपिं हे जक । झी सत्ताय् वनेत युद्ध यानाच्वना, अन विकास यानाः सत्ता घय्पुनाच्वन । इतिहास ल्यनाच्वनी, ई न्ह्यानाच्वनी । जिमिगु मोटर थें ।

कुहाँ ववं १२ बजे जूबलय् जिपिं छकलं मेगु दुनियाय् थ्यंथें जुल । न्हासय् छुं माकुगु सिचुगु दुहाँ वंथें । प्यखेरं चियाबारीं प्याखं प्याखं हुलाः जिमित लसकुस यानाच्वन । नेपाली भासं खँल्हाइपिं स्थानीय मिस्तय् बजि नयेगु ई खनी, लँ सिथय् फ्यतुनाः खँ सयेकाः सयेकाः नयाच्वन । ज्या यायां त्यानुचाःगु लंकेगु अले कथुया प्याःचाः लंकेगु नितां जुयाच्वन ।


कञ्चनजंघा झं सतिना वल । बतासे लूपय् थ्यंबलय् घडीं स्वताः थात । जिपिं थ्यँजक थ्यंगु, छुकछुके रेल जिमित गिजेयानाः प्याखंपाः कयाः वन । हिलकार्ट रोडया शहिद स्मारक — भारतया स्वतन्त्रताया निंतिं ज्यान बिउपिं भारतीय सेनाया गुर्खा सैनिकत । झी नेपालीत दार्जिलिङय् थ्यन कि थः नेपाली जूगु लुमनीगु थाय् नेपाःया गुर्खा सैनिकतय्सं याःगु युद्धया घ्यः धकाः तइगु थाय् ।

हुँइहुँइ फय् वयाच्वन । धस्वनाच्वंगु बतासेया स्मारक इकधिक मसं । उकियात स्वयाः छ्यं क्वछुनाच्वंम्ह गुर्खा सैनिकं नं चिकुल मधाः । लिक्कसं दनाच्वंम्ह तिरंगायात छुं परवाह मदु । निगूत्या दर्जन गुर्खा सैनिकतय्गु नां घासय् थसःपानाच्वन । थःगुनिम्तिं मखु करकिया निंतिं जक ल्वायेफुपिं झी वीर गुर्खात । ज्या वतले ज्याकयाः मवयेव ह्वगंगु कसौरि थें सागालय् वांछ्वयातःपिं गुर्खात । छगू कथं ला पाय्छि नं खः, उमिं थःगु देय्या निंतिं ल्वात । व उमिगु थःगु देय् जिगु देय् मखयाच्वन । सु गन च्वनी व उमिगु देय् जुइ । उलि इमानदारी ला दु नि उमिके ।

मोटर हे पास मजुइगु गल्लीचा, ग्वाः ग्वाः मोटर, हानं लँय् दिकातःगु मेमेगु मोटरत । जिपिं गान्तोकय् मखुत धइगुया संकेत । होटल सेभेन सेभेन्टिन थ्यंबलय् ४.३० जुल । दक्व तिब्बती पह वःगु, चिकिचाकूसां बांलाक छाय्पियातःगु । पलख झासु लना ।

टिभिइ हानं नेपाःया चुनाव । थौं चुनाव जुयां त्वःतल । पत्याः हे मजुइक मनूतय्सं ब्वति काल हँ । नेकपा बैद्यया उमिमछि ख्याच्वःया अर्थ मन्त । जितः छाय् छाय् थ्व चुनाव भिंगु जुइया निंतिं जुयाच्वंगु थें मच्वं । खला आः तक छु भिंगुया निंतिं जुल नेपालय् धइगु नं न्ह्यसः दु । याइगु व हे खः...उकुन्हु तिनि बिएस दासया “सिक्किम गाथा” ब्वनागु । चुनाव खनाः हे ग्याना वः जि ।

बाघौ लिपा दक्व पिहाँ वनेगु धाल । ग्वतुलाच्वनाम्ह जितः जिं हे थनाः क्वत ब्वनायंका । फसं कुचुकुचु नकल । न्ह्यःनेसं शाक्य ज्वेलर्स । येँया गल्लि थें — फोहर, लँ स्यं, उगुथुगुं वां छ्वयातःगु । झ्याजःमाजः तार, लँ चिबाला, छेँ ततःजाः । लँय् नं गज्याःगज्याःपिं मनूत ।

जिपिं ला छकलं चौरस्ता थ्यन । भानुभक्तया शालिक जिमित खनाः फुरुङ्ग जुल । जिपिं अनया गोल्डनटिप्स धाःगु च्यापसलय् दुथ्यन । अन पालंपाः जिमित चिचिग्वःगु कपय् प्यताजि च्या त्वंकल । छु छु हँ । अले तिनि भाः कन, सातु हे वंक ।

अनं पिहाँ वयाः बजारय् सररर मिखा ब्वया । नेपालं वःगु सामानत, चीनं वःगु सामान, भारतया हे सामान । दक्वं छथाय् हे दसेंलि अन वनाः न्याये थन वनाः न्याये छाय् ? बांलाःगु बजार ला मखु तर नं छेँजः लुमंकाः छतानिता सामान ज्वना । छेँ लुमंकेथें जक जुल । जि छकलं छेँय् थ्यन ।

०००

२० नभेम्बर, बुधबार कुन्हु सुथय् क्वथाय् च्वनेमफुत । सुथंनिसें नेपाःया चुनावया समाचार गसू दुहाँ वनेथें जिगु न्हाय्पनय् । वाथाइथां दनाः छझाः चाःहिउवना । छाय् छगू शहर सफा छगू सहर फोहर जुइ ? व हे हि दुपिं नेपाली मूलयापिं मनूत च्वनीगु गान्तोक गुलि यचुपिचु, थ्व दार्जिलिङ छाय् खिखांमुगःथें ? गल्लिं गल्लिं छझाः चाःहिलाः क्वय् बसस्टपय् तक वना । लँय् चिया मियाच्वंपिन्थाय् मिखां मिखां क्वाक्क छगिलास चिया त्वना । ध्याचः, फोहर, धः ल्वाकज्याःगु ला पसः दूगु गल्लिचां जुयाः थाहां वया ।  विकासलिसें व्यवस्था वइ, व्यवस्थाया लिउ लिउ अव्यवस्था वइ । थज्याःगु हे अवस्थाय् लानाच्वंगु दु थ्व दार्जिलिङ ।


अंगलय् निपाः प्यपाः स्वतन्त्रताया पोष्टर प्यपुनाच्वन । गुलिसितं स्वतन्त्र गोर्खाल्याण्ड माः, गुलिसितं सिक्किमय् प्यपुनेदुसा जिउ । तर पश्चिमबंगालया मुठ्ठीइ दुने अनच्वंपिं नेपालीभाषीतय्सं थःगु सासः स्वतन्त्र जुल धकाः धायेफयाच्वंग मदुनि । भारत दुने सु स्वतन्त्र, गुलि स्वतन्त्र ।

सोनादा जुयाः जिपिं कुहाँ वया । मन्ह्यं मन्ह्यं दनाच्वंपिं गाडित, इल्लबिल्ल नेपाःमि ख्वाःवःपिं मनूत । उकिइ पाय्छि अःखः बंगाली ख्वाःवःपिं मनूत । लँ बांलाःगु गनं मदु , व हे लाथेपाथे, घारांघुरुं ।

खर्साङया बस स्टेशन त्वःतावया । छगू वाउँगु स्वर्ग । स्वर्गया रंग गज्याःगु जुइ व ला मसिउ, तर थनला वाँउगु हे स्वर्ग खः । नागबेली काःगु लँ जुयाः कुहाँ कुहाँ वया । रोहिनी मार्ग — दयेकेगु इच्छा व विकासया ध्वाँय् ब्वयेकेगु लक्ष्य जक माः न्ह्याथासं न्ह्यागुं दयेके जिउ खनी ।

कुहाँ वःलिसे ताःन्वयावल । जि गबलय् न्ह्यवल, जिं मसिउ । १२ बजे ती मोटर घ्याचाक्क दिउबलउय् ला जिपिं भारतया सीमा अध्यागमन रानीगंज थ्यनेधुंकल । वयांलिपा नेपाःया अध्यागमनया ज्या दक्व सिधयेकाः हानं अनया हे लोकल माइक्रोलय् लँ तप्यंका ।

घ्याताताता सःवइगु माइक्रोबस, छतय् तयाः नं मन्ह्यंगु जिमिगु सामानया द्वँ, जिपिं झिंनिम्ह अले ड्राइभर बाहेक मेपिं निम्ह मिजंत यानाः जिमिगु मोटर जाल । गुलि वन उलि मोटर तिंन्हुयाहल, भःभःन्हूम्ह सलथें । जिपिं दुने डोकों त्वपुयातःपिं खाचातथें वाथावाथा ।

नेपाःया लँ । वहे थ्वाथःगु ह्वह्वगंगु, त्यातःगु लँ क्यनाः संविधान सभाया चुनाव तक वनेगु लँ दयेकीपिन्सं जनताया लँया छु वास्ता याइ ? नेपाःया लँ व संविधान सभाया लँ उथें हे । जिमिगु मोटर संविधान सभा पाखेन्ह्यात ।
Publishes in Naali bi-monthly in 1134 Thinla9/2 (68) "Refresshing Sikkim" in 20140114 

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